it's the little things in life

Egyptians are at the same time a very kind and very obnoxious people. When a woman walks down the street men will make comments in Arabic and sometimes harass her, but at the same time the culture is inherently kinder than ours. I use that word because it seems the most appropriate.

Example: I rode the metro for the first time on Friday to the neighborhood Maadi. When you get on the metro you slide your ticket through and retrieve it, but I didn't know that and left my ticket so on the other end I was stuck. An old woman, seeing my confusion, simply motioned to her son to give me his. I was struck at how genuinely caring and decent this was, but also how that kind of gesture is commonplace here.

People do things for each other. it's a novel idea, I know, but it's very heartwarming to see. Even the greetings mean things like "I'm better to know you" and "Morning of Light" and "Peace be upon you/Go with peace." Walking down the street in Maadi an old woman said something to us, and at first I thought she was begging, but actually she was telling us "كل السنة وانتم طيبين" which translates roughly as "All the years and you are well." A random stranger. That's just how it is, and it's lovely.

On the metro we rode the women's car. I think I would have felt uncomfortable on the mixed cars because here as a girl I am much more conscious of men looking at me (they stare at everybody, it takes some getting used to). The women on the car were also very gracious, always offering seats to older women, and buying treats for each others' children from the vendors that come on the metro.

I have noticed, though, that I get harsher looks dressed as a westerner (I cover up plenty, but I still have Western style and no veil) from the women than from the men. On campus, with all of the wealthy Egyptians, it is different, but walking around Cairo I feel like I am being judged by the women that I pass. It's also far easier to befriend Egyptian men than women. More to come on this I'm sure, I'm still figuring it out.